I am two flights up a rickety staircase in a concrete buildng across the street from the Dalai Lama's residence at 7pm in the evening. It is 7:30am and you are just beginning the day that I am finishing. If this email is filled with even more typos than my previous ones it's becaue the keyboard I am using should have been retired a long time ago. the keys are vey mushy, barely regstering unless I hammer them. One flouresctent bulb buzzes overhead and a small rado is playing Bollywood showtunes. Four tibetan mnks are workng at their own computers beside me, each one using Yahoo mail or IM-ng. Dogs bark at the waning traffic, the last few motorcycles roarng up over the crest of the hill beofre the town goes all dark. A large family of beggars is camped out up the street, cookgn chapatis on an open fire at the edge of the road. Each time I walk past them, a lttle girl about four eyars old, her hair matted, feet black and clothing worn through, shouts to me "Hello sir! Rupees? Eat?" There are also about a half dozen lepers who curl up under their blankets and sleep at the edge of the street each night. A large black cow and i crossed paths several times tday, especally near the veg market. The local dogs almost killed one of their own in a dramatic street brawl that was broken up by a lttle old Tibetan woman...
Lunch was steamed momos and tenthuk, which is Tibetan dumplngs and veg noodle soup, best eaten with chili paste. also had an apple lassi, a yogurt drnk to help cool the effects of the chili paste. caught up with Rinchen Tsomo and her daughter at the veg market jsut before sundown, adn they seem happy and healthy. Little Ngawang, five years old, was eating a slice of watermelon and spttng the seeds everywhere, including on me and RInchen, in between attempts to show off her English. She is on holiday for several weeks for Losar, Tbetan New Year.
I walked with them a little while and then we agreed to meet in the morning. Rcnchen was at the market to buy me fruit as a welcomng gesture. I do not know what I wll do with a huge bag of pomegranates, oranges, bananas, a mango and a pneapple, but if you were thking about that family of beggars, I am way ahead of you...
This keybard s driving me crazy, so will go find some supper adn turn in.
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1 comment:
are you seeing any of the "Down with Valentine's Day" protests and such I'm reading about? Burning Valentine cards and all that. They mentioned various places that you had been I think.
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